The Gear That Made It Happen With Cheyne Lempe

Edelweiss athlete, Cheyne Lempe has been jumping between Yosemite and Patagonia for the last few years. He's been setting some records and snagging first ascents on some phenomenal walls. In all of these adventures, he's kept one thing pretty consistent...his rope. Here's what he has to say about the Edelweiss Energy 9.5mm:

In the past few years, I have used the Edelweiss Energy 9.5mm climbing rope on more big routes than anything else. The rope has an incredible durability-to-weight ratio, and is a true workhorse. Dragging the rope through miles of abrasive granite down in Patagonia or grinding it up the huge walls of Yosemite, the rope has always been a crucial factor in my success.

The following images were taken during significant ascents while using the Edelweiss Energy rope:

The North Pillar Sit Start (5.11, C1, 2000m) - Fitz Roy Massif - Patagonia, Argentina - First ascent. Photo by Cheyne Lempe.

Monos Al Cielo (5.11, 400m) - Aguja Guillaumet - Patagonia, Argentina - First Ascent. Photo by Scott Bennett.

The Shortest Straw (5.9 A4) - El Capitan - Yosemite, CA - Speed Record (12 hours 20 minutes). Photo by Tom Evans.

The Care Bear Traverse (1900 meters 5.10 C1) - Fitz Roy Massif  - Patagonia, Argentina - Reported 4th ascent of route. Photo by Cheyne Lempe.

Octopussy (A2+ 5.9) - El Capitan - Yosemite, CA - First one-day ascent (18 hours 8 minutes). Photo by Cheyne Lempe.

The Triple Crown Linkup (El Capitan, Mt. Watkins, and Half Dome) - Yosemite, CA - Third party to climb linkup (22 hours 59 minutes). Photo by Cheyne Lempe.

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Keeping Things Light With The Cypher Mydas

Cheyne Lempe, notorious for always being on a big wall, shares his thoughts about the Cypher Mydas carabiner.

"For some, a climbing-equipment-weight-reduction obsession may seem slightly ridiculous on single-pitch climbs or shorter length routes.  However, I have learned from climbing first ascents in Patagonia and solo big-wall pushes in Yosemite that the energy spent carrying excess weight for an extended amount of time is significant. The weight that I save while using the Cypher Mydas wire gate carabiner allows me to push myself higher, harder, and faster.

The two main factors that I use when deciding which carabiners to use are weight and clip-a-bility. Weighing in at 24 grams with a strength rating of 23kn, the Mydas is one of the lightest carabiners on the market. The spring tension of the gate is easy to clip, yet is stiff enough to prevent an accidental opening of the gate. The overall size is just big enough so that you won't fumble with gloves on."

--Cheyne Lempe

Photos © Austin Siadak.
See more of his work at http://austinsiadak.blogspot.com/

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