Showing posts with label Edelweiss Ropes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Edelweiss Ropes. Show all posts
11/1/16
Gear Review: Edelweiss Curve 9.8mm
Sean Smith, a climbing guide at Denver Mountain Guiding was able to test out the Edelweiss Curve 9.8mm rope on a few recent trips to Eldorado Canyon and the Flatirons. The Curve is a versatile rope suitable for many styles of climbing in a variety of environments. The 9.8mm diameter allows for a skinny-rope feel without compromising safety.
From Sean's review: "The Curve offers great handling and knotting, and runs through gear like a dream, while not being a significant weight at the end of long pitches."
Read the full review here
10/17/16
Gear Review: Edelweiss Curve ARC
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| Photo: Gearographer Review |
Shannon Sollitt and the gear team at Gearographer recently had the chance to try out one of the most versatile ropes from Edelweiss, the Curve 9.8mm. The Curve is part of the Perform3 family (meaning that is has been engineered with the ideal balance of durability, handling, and performance) and is a great option for climbers of all skill levels. The 9.8mm diameter is light enough that it can be carried with ease on long approaches, but also durable enough to handle 8 UIAA falls and abuse for years to come.
The rope reviewed by Shannon was the ARC model featuring a bi-pattern weave to help easily identify the rope's middle and a bright green color that looks great in photos. She says that the rope is "easy to handle, light to carry, and feels mighty trustworthy to climbing partners on either end of it" and calls it the "perfect single-rope companion for sport and trad climbers of all abilities."
6/8/16
Gear Review: Edelweiss Curve 9.8MM
The folks over at Climbing Zine recently reviewed the Edelweiss Curve 9.8MM rope, a high performance
and dependable rope perfect for sport or trad climbing. The Curve comes in
three different lengths (50M, 60M, and 70M) and is available with Unicore
technology, an ARC bipattern option, and Supereverdry treatment for top level
water repellency. This rope is ideal for progressing climbers looking to
improve their skills and climb harder.
Reviewer Drew Thayer describes his criteria in
looking for a new cragging rope "It doesn’t have to be fancy, or
particularly light, just something durable that my partners and I can take a
thousand falls on and never worry about it. There are lots of options out there,
and the Curve 9.8 mm rope stands out as a good one."
Thayer goes on to say "I don’t know how
Edelweiss pulled this off, but they managed to build a durable, 9.8 mm rope
with a high fall rating that catches as softly as Beal’s super slinky Opera
rope…that’s 8.5 mm thick. If you like soft falls, but are looking for a
long-wearing workhorse, cragging with this rope is like cheating: you get
both."
Read the full review here
Labels:
Climbing Gear,
Edelweiss,
Edelweiss Gear,
Edelweiss Ropes,
Gear Reviews
10/29/15
Gear Review: Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Unicore
Climbing Magazine acclaims that the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Unicore is a “next generation smart rope.”
9/17/14
The Gear That Made It Happen With Cheyne Lempe
Edelweiss athlete, Cheyne Lempe has been jumping between Yosemite and Patagonia for the last few years. He's been setting some records and snagging first ascents on some phenomenal walls. In all of these adventures, he's kept one thing pretty consistent...his rope. Here's what he has to say about the Edelweiss Energy 9.5mm:
In the past few years, I have used the Edelweiss Energy 9.5mm climbing rope on more big routes than anything else. The rope has an incredible durability-to-weight ratio, and is a true workhorse. Dragging the rope through miles of abrasive granite down in Patagonia or grinding it up the huge walls of Yosemite, the rope has always been a crucial factor in my success.
The following images were taken during significant ascents while using the Edelweiss Energy rope:
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| The North Pillar Sit Start (5.11, C1, 2000m) - Fitz Roy Massif - Patagonia, Argentina - First ascent. Photo by Cheyne Lempe. |
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| Monos Al Cielo (5.11, 400m) - Aguja Guillaumet - Patagonia, Argentina - First Ascent. Photo by Scott Bennett. |
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| The Shortest Straw (5.9 A4) - El Capitan - Yosemite, CA - Speed Record (12 hours 20 minutes). Photo by Tom Evans. |
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| The Care Bear Traverse (1900 meters 5.10 C1) - Fitz Roy Massif - Patagonia, Argentina - Reported 4th ascent of route. Photo by Cheyne Lempe. |
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| Octopussy (A2+ 5.9) - El Capitan - Yosemite, CA - First one-day ascent (18 hours 8 minutes). Photo by Cheyne Lempe. |
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| The Triple Crown Linkup (El Capitan, Mt. Watkins, and Half Dome) - Yosemite, CA - Third party to climb linkup (22 hours 59 minutes). Photo by Cheyne Lempe. |
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7/10/14
Gear Review: Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Unicore
Climbing Magazine acclaims that the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Unicore is a “next generation smart rope.”
What is a “smart rope?” According to Climbing Magazine, a smart rope “incorporates features that significantly increase safety, boost durability, or tailor it for a niche use. “ They also said that smart ropes encompass more than just a simple dry treatment and/or tighter sheath weave.
Here are the features that make the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Unicore a smart-rope:
- Unicore: The sheath is bonded to the core to eliminate sheath slippage, bunching, and fraying. More info here. “I view it as a top-notch lead line by itself, and then the added security of Unicore is like extra icing on the cake.” –Climbing Magazine
- UIAA Water Repellent: With the Supereverdry treatment, the Performance absorbs less than 1.5% water. More info here.
- Triple CE and UIAA Certification: The Performance works safely as a single, half, and twin rope.
- Lightweight: “At 53 g/m, the Performance is one of the lightest [single] ropes on the market.” –Climbing Magazine
- Thin Diameter: The Performance is a slim 9.2mm, offering great handling and keeping the bulk down when packing it.
We asked Edelweiss athlete, Scott Bennett to chime in and offer his opinion about the rope:
“The Performance is my favorite cord! Before I started climbing on the Performance, I'd always thought that there was a direct trade-off between weight and durability. The skinny ropes that I'd used were haggard after just a season of use. With the Performance 9.2, however, I've realized that a well-built rope can be trustworthy over multiple years, regardless of the diameter. I climb on an 80-meter line. At 9.2 mm, it doesn’t weigh that much and allows me to link multiple pitches to get my climbing done faster.”
More about Supereverdry
With Edelweiss's Supereverdry treatment every filament of the sheath and core is treated with a water repellent chemical before the rope is manufactured. This chemical covering is polymerized at a high temperature, making it last for a very long time. The outstanding durability and water repellency of this treatment makes it so that any treated rope absorbs less than 1.5% water, making it a certified UIAA Water Repellent Rope. The benefits of a Supereverdry treated rope is: limited weight gain in wet conditions, no bloating in wet conditions, decreased friction and abrasion on carabiners, belay devices, and rock.
More about Unicore
With Unicore, the sheath and core are bonded together to prevent sheath slippage and bunching. If the sheath is cut or torn, the core and sheath remain bonded together, preventing the core from being overexposed and allowing for a safer escape. With any standard rope, the sheath slips, unravels, and bunches when cut by abrasion over an edge—a frequent occurrence in the mountains—making it impossible to pass the damaged zone by ascending or descending. Edelweiss is one of two companies that construct dynamic climbing ropes with Unicore.
More about UIAA Water Repellent
For any rope to be certified as a UIAA Water Repellent rope, a sample must be subjected to some light abrasion over it’s entire surface, equivalent to a few days’ use. It is then soaked in water for 15 minutes following a precise procedure. The amount of water absorbed must not be greater than 5% of the sample’s weight. Edelweiss's Supereverdry treated ropes easily pass this test and absorb less than 1.5%. For comparison, a non-treated rope absorbs around 50% of water in this test while , and current ropes on the market labeled as "dry” but lacking adequate treatments absorb between 20% and 40% of water. Edelweiss is one of two companies that have UIAA Water Repellent certified ropes.
Edelweiss is one of the many brands exclusively distributed in the U.S. by Liberty Mountain. Visit LibertyMountain.com or contact the Liberty Mountain Sales Team to become an Edelweiss dealer today._________
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