Gear Review: Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Unicore

Climbing Magazine acclaims that the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Unicore is a “next generation smart rope.”

Gear Review: Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Unicore

Climbing Magazine acclaims that the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Unicore is a “next generation smart rope.”

What is a “smart rope?” According to Climbing Magazine, a smart rope “incorporates features that significantly increase safety, boost durability, or tailor it for a niche use. “ They also said that smart ropes encompass more than just a simple dry treatment and/or tighter sheath weave.

Here are the features that make the Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm Unicore a smart-rope:

• Unicore: The sheath is bonded to the core to eliminate sheath slippage, bunching, and fraying. More info here. “I view it as a top-notch lead line by itself, and then the added security of Unicore is like extra icing on the cake.” –Climbing Magazine
  
  
• UIAA Water Repellent: With the Supereverdry treatment, the Performance absorbs less than 1.5% water. More info here.
• Triple CE and UIAA Certification: The Performance works safely as a single, half, and twin rope.
• Lightweight: “At 53 g/m, the Performance is one of the lightest [single] ropes on the market.” –Climbing Magazine
• Thin Diameter: The Performance is a slim 9.2mm, offering great handling and keeping the bulk down when packing it.

We asked Edelweiss athlete, Scott Bennett to chime in and offer his opinion about the rope:

“The Performance is my favorite cord! Before I started climbing on the Performance, I'd always thought that there was a direct trade-off between weight and durability. The skinny ropes that I'd used were haggard after just a season of use. With the Performance 9.2, however, I've realized that a well-built rope can be trustworthy over multiple years, regardless of the diameter. I climb on an 80-meter line. At 9.2 mm, it doesn’t weigh that much and allows me to link multiple pitches to get my climbing done faster.” 

More about Supereverdry
With Edelweiss's Supereverdry treatment every filament of the sheath and core is treated with a water repellent chemical before the rope is manufactured. This chemical covering is polymerized at a high temperature, making it last for a very long time. The outstanding durability and water repellency of this treatment makes it so that any treated rope absorbs less than 1.5% water, making it a certified UIAA Water Repellent Rope. The benefits of a Supereverdry treated rope is: limited weight gain in wet conditions, no bloating in wet conditions, decreased friction and abrasion on carabiners, belay devices, and rock.

More about Unicore
With Unicore, the sheath and core are bonded together to prevent sheath slippage and bunching. If the sheath is cut or torn, the core and sheath remain bonded together, preventing the core from being overexposed and allowing for a safer escape. With any standard rope, the sheath slips, unravels, and bunches when cut by abrasion over an edge—a frequent occurrence in the mountains—making it impossible to pass the damaged zone by ascending or descending. Edelweiss is one of two companies that construct dynamic climbing ropes with Unicore.

More about UIAA Water Repellent
For any rope to be certified as a UIAA Water Repellent rope, a sample must be subjected to some light abrasion over it’s entire surface, equivalent to a few days’ use. It is then soaked in water for 15 minutes following a precise procedure. The amount of water absorbed must not be greater than 5% of the sample’s weight. Edelweiss's Supereverdry treated ropes easily pass this test and absorb less than 1.5%. For comparison, a non-treated rope absorbs around 50% of water in this test while , and current ropes on the market labeled as "dry” but lacking adequate treatments absorb between 20% and 40% of water. Edelweiss is one of two companies that have UIAA Water Repellent certified ropes.


Edelweiss is one of the many brands exclusively distributed in the U.S. by Liberty Mountain. Visit LibertyMountain.com or contact the Liberty Mountain Sales Team to become an Edelweiss dealer today.












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Beal, Grivel, and Singing Rock Featured in Backpacker Magazine

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Gear Review: Beal Tiger 10MM Unicore

The Beal Tiger 10mm Unicore climbing rope was recently featured in the Climbing Magazine 2013 Spring Gear Guide. Praised for being the “Best In Class,” the gear testers and editors at Climbing Magazine loved the Tiger for its innovative rope protection from the use of Unicore; a method of permanently bonding the sheath of the rope to the core that eliminates sheath slippage. “I had no worries of this thing cutting and exposing the core if I blew it,” said one gear tester after using the Tiger on his climb up Tiger Balm Arete (5.11R) in Eldorado Canyon, CO.

Continued...



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Beal Unicore Climbing Ropes

Beal, a leading manufacturer of climbing ropes added some additional ropes to their extensive line of UNICORE ropes. The technology and benefits behind UNICORE are phenomenal. We've been doing a lot of testing and research to thoroughly appreciate this method of making climbing ropes safer. We've been sharing our discoveries on our LM Climbing blog:

The 2013 Beal UNICORE Ropes

For 2013, Beal is adding five more ropes to its line of UNICORE ropes making a total of 13 UNICORE ropes. From a diameter of 7mm and up to 11mm, there is now a UNICORE rope for every type of climbing.

New to the UNICORE ranks is the Ice Line 8.1mm, Cobra 8.6 mm, Joker 9.1mm, Tiger 10mm, and Top Gun 10.5mm. For over a year now, the Diablo 9.8mm, Diablo 10.2mm, Wall School 10.2mm, Wall Master 10.5mm, Access 10.5 & 11mm, Baobab 13.5mm, and Spelenium 8.5mm have astonished the masses with its UNICORE properties that ramps up the ropes’ safety and performance.

Advantages of UNICORE:

On a classic rope, if the sheath is accidentally severed, it slides and bunches over several meters. It then becomes impossible to pass this zone, whether climbing or descending.

With UNICORE, the sheath stays in place and the user may escape, either by climbing or by descending, whilst taking all necessary precautions. You are not stuck on the rope with no way out!

BEAL ICE LINE 8.1mm UNICORE

NEW - The first UNICORE double rope

The Beal Ice Line 8.1mm UNICORE is the lightest half-rope made using Beal’s UNICORE technology. UNICORE permanently bonds the sheath to the core to eliminate sheath slippage and improves performance and safety, especially in wet conditions. The Ice Line’s extremely low impact force settles the nerves when facing less-than-perfect protection points in ice and on mixed routes. A trump card that no alpinist can ignore. Watch the video of this rope getting cut.

STRONG POINTS: 

• UNICORE Process 

• Exceedingly low impact force 

• Smooth performance from one-over-two weave 

• Abrasion and water resistant with Golden Dry or Dry Cover 

BEAL COBRA 8.6mm UNICORE
NEW - The great classic for adventure climbing becomes UNICORE

The Beal Cobra 8.6mm UNICORE is the classic half-rope for adventure climbing. With Beal’s UNICORE technology, the sheath and core are permanently bonded together to eliminate sheath slippage and improve performance and safety. The Cobra runs light and free on long routes, tenacious mountains, and wild ice falls. A technical and strong rope that supports the most difficult demands. Watch the video of this rope getting cut.

STRONG POINTS:
• UNICORE Process
• Excellent balance between weight and durability
• Low impact force and high fall rating
• Abrasion and water resistant with Golden Dry or Dry Cover

BEAL JOKER 9.1mm UNICORE

NEW - The first multi-purpose UNICORE rope

The Beal Joker 9.1mm UNICORE is the ultimate rope that conforms to all three dynamic rope standards; single, half, twin. The Joker will be loved by the most extreme climbers that seek light and easy running lines. The more avid traditional climbers will hold tightly to the Joker for its multipurpose abilities on ridge and face routes, as well as mixed ice and snow. With Beal’s UNICORE technology, the sheath and core are permanently bonded together to eliminate sheath slippage and improve performance and safety. Watch the video of this rope getting cut.

STRONG POINTS: 

• UNICORE Process 

• Single, half, and twin certified 

• Abrasion and water resistant with Golden Dry or Dry Cover 

BEAL DIABLO 9.8mm UNICORE

The go-to rope with UNICORE

Building on the Diablo 10.2 UNICORE, Beal has developed the Diablo 9.8 UNICORE for more demanding climbers. Unicore bonds the sheath to the core to reduce sheath slippage, keep the rope compact over time, increases the suppleness of the rope. Due to its very fluid running sheath the 9.8 Diablo UNICORE performs even better when pulling slack and clipping than ‘classic’ ropes of smaller diameter and lower weight. Watch the video of this rope getting cut.

STRONG POINTS:

• Reduced sheath slippage

• Remains compact and supple

• Better abrasion resistance

• Easy clipping

BEAL TIGER 10mm UNICORE

NEW - The start to going thin with UNICORE

The Beal Tiger 10mm UNICORE makes for a seamless transition into the world of thin-rope-climbing. Avid sport and trad climbers revere the Tiger as an ideal rope for projecting. Its light and fluid action deceives all thick-diameter-stereotypes. With Beal’s UNICORE technology, the sheath and core are permanently bonded together to eliminate sheath slippage and improve performance and safety. Watch the video of this rope getting cut.

STRONG POINTS: 

• UNICORE Process 

• Compatible with all semi-automatic belay devices 

• Abrasion and water resistant with Golden Dry or Dry Cover 

• Easy to clip and nice to handle 

BEAL DIABLO 10.2mm UNICORE
The first outdoor dynamic rope to use UNICORE

Diablo 10.2 UNICORE is the first outdoor use dynamic rope to use the UNICORE process. Unicore bonds the sheath to the core to reduce sheath slippage, keep the rope compact over time, increases the suppleness of the rope. Its diameter will provide reassurance to the majority of climbers, while it smooth sheath and supple handling give the sensation of using a much thinner rope. This rope is a great all around rope, being effective for the leader and reassuring the belayer. Watch the video of this rope getting cut.

STRONG POINTS:
• Reduced sheath slippage
• Remains compact and supple
• Better abrasion resistance

BEAL WALL SCHOOL 10.2mm UNICORE
The thinner indoor rope with UNICORE

This new rope was specifically developed for indoor use in climbing gyms. The small diameter allows children to gain better handling and confidence knowing that this rope is perfectly adapted to them. Thick sheath and UNICORE allows greater resistance to abrasion and eliminates sheath slippage and bunching at the ends.

STRONG POINTS:
• UNICORE process eliminating sheath slippage
• Thick sheath offering better resistance to abrasion
• Thin diameter allowing better handling and knotability even by children

BEAL TOP GUN 10.5mm UNICORE

NEW - Amazing performance, and now with UNICORE

The Beal Top Gun 10.5mm UNICORE puts up an endless fight against the rock and consistent falling. Using Beal’s UNICORE technology, The Top Gun’s core and sheath are permanently bonded together to eliminate sheath slippage and improve performance and safety. The Top Gun delivers high-level results and a record number of falls for its diameter. One of the most impressive ropes on the market. Watch the video of this rope getting cut.

STRONG POINTS: 

• UNICORE Process 

• Low impact force + very high number of falls 

• Abrasion and water resistant with Golden Dry or Dry Cover 

BEAL WALL MASTER 10.5mm UNICORE
The perfect indoor rope with UNICORE

Designed specifically for the climbing wall environment - the thicker sheath associated with the UNICORE process makes for a tougher rope perfectly adapted to resist wear due to repeated belays and low impact falls.

STRONG POINTS:
• UNICORE process virtually eliminating sheath slippage
• Thick and soft to the touch sheath
• Ease of manipulation over time

BEAL ACCESS 10.5 & 11mm UNICORE

Work and rescue rope with UNICORE

The standard in access ropes for maximum security in all situations. The Access Unicore ropes bring a new level of security to work or rescue operations. Unicore process bonds the sheath and core without affecting the ropes suppleness or handling. Unicore brings an undeniable gain in security during delicate and dangerous operations. It allows the user to escape if the sheath has been cut. Watch the video of this rope getting cut.

BEAL BAOBAB 13.5mm UNICORE

Tree working rope with UNICORE.

Braiding technique of this American style tree worker rope gives it great qualities of strength, pliability and easy handling. The new Unicore process, which bonds the core and sheath, prevents sheath slippage during use.

BEAL SPELENIUM 8.5mm UNICORE
The caver’s option with UNICORE

The Spelenium 8.5mm UNICORE is supple and easy to use. As a static line, the Spelenium uses UNICORE to provide cavers the safety they need on a rope they trust their lives with. It is perfectly adapted to caving. Because of the UNICORE, should the sheath get torn due to abrasion, it still remains glued to the core without any slippage. This allows the user to escape either on their way up or down.

STRONG POINTS:
• Designed specifically for caving
• The rope doesn’t bunch up and remains supple for the long term
• Allows escape by abseil or ascenders, even if the sheath has been severed

Additional info on UNICORE:
The Real Truth About UNICORE
UNICORE - Beal's "Special Ingredient"
UNICORE by Beal

Purchase Beal ropes at a gear shop near you or directly from www.libertymountainclimbing.com.

The Real Truth About UNICORE

With Beal’s introduction of a new line of dynamic climbing ropes that feature UNICORE, climbers now have a safer option to consider when purchasing a rope. UNICORE permanently bonds a rope’s sheath to its core, eliminating sheath slippage, allowing a climber to escape off the rope if the sheath has been cut, reduces rope shrinkage, and allows for the temporary cutting of a rope without the sheath fraying.

Climbing Ropes
Climbing ropes are interesting things. Not only is a climbing rope a piece of safety gear, but it is also considered a piece of performance gear. As climbers, we demand that our climbing rope be durable and shock absorbing to better save us in case we fall, as well as desire that the rope be supple, light, and skinny so it will assist us with our onsite or redpoint. The dual nature of climbing ropes makes it so that there are different climbing ropes that are made for all types of climbing:

• Indoor use
• Outdoor use
• Sport climbing
• Trad climbing
• Ice climbing
• Alpine climbing
• Single ropes
• Half ropes
• Twin ropes
• Dynamic lines
• Static lines

…and the list goes on.

As a climber, your friends will always ask you, “What is the best rope that I should buy?” In fact, you even wonder that yourself. With all the different brands and models of ropes, the “simple” action of buying a climbing rope does become mind-boggling. Won’t just any rope get the job done? Aren’t all the fancy features that make one rope different to another just personal preference?

When you look at a climbing rope as a piece of performance gear, then yes, most of the distinguishing features found on today’s ropes cater to the endless line of personal preferences. However, when you look at a climbing rope as a piece of safety gear, then there are some standard features that every climber’s rope should  possess. Some of these features would include low impact force, high strength and durability, and no sheath slippage.

Sheath Slippage
The problem with modern-day rope construction is that all ropes are fabricated where the core and sheath of the rope, although tightly woven around each other, are completely independent from each other and can easily be separated. This is where the term “sheath slippage” comes into play. Sheath slippage occurs when the core and the sheath don’t stretch in sync with each other, acting as two separate units. This causes a rope to be lumpy with the sheath bunched up in some areas and over stretched in others.

Ever seen a rope at a climbing gym, used mainly for top roping, that has an excess amount of sheath at the end? Have you witnessed how quickly the sheath will unravel when you cut a rope without searing the ends? What about when the sheath of a weighted rope gets cut on a sharp rock, worn out carabiner, crampon, or ice axe? In all of these cases, the rope is left with bunched up sheath sections, unraveled threads all over the place, and an overly exposed core that is weak and impossible to pass through an ascender or belay/rappel device.

UNICORE
It was for these reasons that Beal, a leading manufacturer of both static and dynamic ropes, started brainstorming, testing, and now manufacturing ropes that don’t experience the unsafe action of sheath slippage. Beal now offers an extensive line of dynamic climbing ropes where the sheaths are bonded to the core, i.e., UNICORE.

UNICORE ends up increasing the safety of a climbing rope without affecting its performance, strength, durability, stretch, and suppleness. UNICORE is much like the biological tissue/membrane that keeps the skin attached to the rest of the body. The sheath of a UNICORE rope stays connected to the core, even when the rope gets cut or wet; keeping both parts of the rope acting as one. UNICORE is stretchy, supple, and compatible with Beal's special water and abrasion resistant treatments. This means that the UNICORE technology can be used on both dynamic and static ropes as well as ropes intended for dry and wet condition.

UNICORE eliminates sheath slippage, even under the most adverse conditions such as excessive top roping and active belaying. With a UNICORE rope, climbers won't experience having sections of the sheath bunching or over stretching.

UNICORE prevents the over exposure of the rope’s core and the excessive fraying of the sheath fibers if the sheath were to get cut or torn. That alone will allow the climber to retreat on a rope whose sheath is cut and still be able to pass it through the carabiners, ascenders and belay/rappel devices.

The sheath of a UNICORE rope stays connected to the core at all times, even when it gets cut or wet; keeping the core covered and reinforced.  The sheath of a standard rope, when cut or wet, will unravel, bunch, over-stretch, and bloat independently from the core; leaving the core internally twisted, overexposed, and weak.

On a classic rope, if the sheath is accidentally severed, it frays and bunches over several meters. It then becomes impossible to pass this zone, whether ascending or descending. With a UNICORE rope, the sheath stays in place and the user may escape, either by climbing or by descending, whilst taking all necessary precautions.

The Conclusion
UNICORE is a pertinent feature for climbing ropes that isn’t openly visible. Much like an insurance policy, Unicore is there waiting to back you up in a time of need. As the sport of climbing continues to advance, so must the gear. With Unicore, Beal is raising the bar and standard for climbing ropes, offering the needed protection and safety you desire.

.....

Beal qualifies as the worlds’ premier manufacturer of climbing and security ropes. This leading position is explained by indisputable technical advances in the production process, and sales of over 8 million meters of rope annually.

Liberty Mountain is the exclusive U.S. distributor of these French made ropes, making Beal a leading brand that is seen in many, if not most of the outdoor retail shops around the nation. Liberty Mountain also directly sells Beal products to the general consumer at www.libertymountainclimbing.com.

Cutting a Beal Unicore Rope

Video Description From Vimeo.
In this video, a demonstration is given to show what happens to a weighted rope when the sheath is cut. The first rope is standard climbing rope and the second rope is a Beal Diablo 10.2 Unicore rope. See what happens to each rope when the sheath is cut. Notice that the Diablo rope, with Unicore technology, doesn't experience any sheath slippage when cut.

Learn more about UNICORE on the LMC Blog: http://libertymountainclimbing.blogspot.com/2012/07/unicore-beals-special-ing...

UNICORE is the industry leading method of securing the core and sheath of a rope together without changing the rope's performance and durability properties. UNICORE is much like the biological tissue/membrane that keeps the skin attached to the rest of the body.

With a UNICORE rope, climbers won't experience their sheath bunching at the ends and the core will not be overexposed from sheath slippage if the sheath gets cut. That alone will allow any climber to retreat on a rope whose sheath is cut and still be able to pass it through the chains, carabiners, and belay/rappel devices.

UNICORE is stretchy, supple, and compatible with Beal's special water and abrasion treatments. This means that the UNICORE technology can be used on both dynamic and static ropes as well as ropes intended for dry and wet condition.

You can find the Beal Diablo 10.2 and 9.8 ropes at almost any climbing gear shop, or you can buy it directly from http://www.libertymountainclimbing.com

Liberty Mountain and Beal Soon To Make A Big Announcement

We have some exciting news and we just can't wait to tell you all about it.


Imagine yourself rock climbing. You're seconding up a route that you partner just finished leading while fighting the worst rope drag due to numerous rock ledges and roofs. As you climb, your partner heaves on the rope to take in the slack. The next thing you know your rope looks like a snake trying to shed its skin and you are dangling from what looks like a bundle of white nylon threads.

At some point along the timeline of a climbing rope's life the sheath will get wet, cut, grated, and definitely stretched. This leaves the core of the rope to be exposed or free to make parallel movements inside the sheath.

Many people have been to a climbing gym and seen how the sheath of the ropes are all bunched up at the ends. And some have even seen the result of when the sheath is cut while climbing as illustrated above.

"Sheath slippage" is no joke. It's actually dangerous. And that is why Liberty Mountain and Beal brought a phenomenal game changer to the US market last spring...UNICORE.

UNICORE is the industry leading method of securing the core and sheath of a rope together without changing the rope's performance and durability properties. UNICORE is much like the biological tissue/membrane that keeps the skin attached to the rest of the body.


With a UNICORE rope, climbers won't experience their sheath bunching at the ends and the core will not be overexposed from sheath slippage if the sheath gets cut. That alone will allow any climber to retreat on a rope whose sheath is cut and still be able to pass it through the chains, carabiners, and belay/rappel devices.

In the video below a demonstration is given to show what happens to a weighted rope when the sheath is cut. The first rope does not have UNICORE and the second one does. See the difference.

UNICORE is stretchy, supple, and compatible with Beal's special water and abrasion treatments. This means that the UNICORE technology can be used on both dynamic and static ropes as well as ropes intended for dry and wet condition.

Now you are probably wondering what the big news is that we are so anxious to share, seeing how UNICORE has already been on the market for a hand-full of months. Well, as of now there are only three ropes that are vested with the honorable UNICORE, e.g., Beal's Diablo, Wall Master, and Wall School ropes. So our big news today is that there will be more...we just can't tell you which ropes yet.

At the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market in August, Liberty Mountain and Beal will reveal the extended collection of ropes that will reign supreme with UNICORE. Keep an eye and ear out for this big announcement and receive it directly by subscribing to our blog and social media pages on Facebook, Google+, and Twitter.

...

Beal qualifies as the worlds’ premier manufacturer of climbing and security ropes. This leading position is explained by indisputable technical advances in the production process, and sales of over 8 million meters of rope annually.

Liberty Mountain is the exclusive U.S. distributor of these French made ropes, making Beal a leading brand that is seen in many, if not most of the outdoor retail shops around the nation. Liberty Mountain also directly sells Beal products to the general consumer through LibertyMountainClimbing.com.

...

UNICORE - Beal's "Special Ingredient"

We have some exciting news and we just can't wait to tell you all about it.


Imagine yourself rock climbing. You're seconding up a route that you partner just finished leading while fighting the worst rope drag due to numerous rock ledges and roofs. As you climb, your partner heaves on the rope to take in the slack. The next thing you know your rope looks like a snake trying to shed its skin and you are dangling from what looks like a bundle of white nylon threads.

At some point along the timeline of a climbing rope's life the sheath will get wet, cut, grated, and definitely stretched. This leaves the core of the rope to be exposed or free to make parallel movements inside the sheath.

Many people have been to a climbing gym and seen how the sheath of the ropes are all bunched up at the ends. And some have even seen the result of when the sheath is cut while climbing as illustrated above.

"Sheath slippage" is no joke. It's actually dangerous. And that is why Liberty Mountain and Beal brought a phenomenal game changer to the US market last spring...UNICORE.

UNICORE is the industry leading method of securing the core and sheath of a rope together without changing the rope's performance and durability properties. UNICORE is much like the biological tissue/membrane that keeps the skin attached to the rest of the body.


With a UNICORE rope, climbers won't experience their sheath bunching at the ends and the core will not be overexposed from sheath slippage if the sheath gets cut. That alone will allow any climber to retreat on a rope whose sheath is cut and still be able to pass it through the chains, carabiners, and belay/rappel devices.

In the video below a demonstration is given to show what happens to a weighted rope when the sheath is cut. The first rope does not have UNICORE and the second one does. See the difference.



UNICORE is stretchy, supple, and compatible with Beal's special water and abrasion treatments. This means that the UNICORE technology can be used on both dynamic and static ropes as well as ropes intended for dry and wet condition.

Now you are probably wondering what the big news is that we are so anxious to share, seeing how UNICORE has already been on the market for a hand-ful of months. Well, as of now there are only three ropes that are vested with the honorable UNICORE, e.g., Beal's Diablo, Wall Master, and Wall School ropes. So our big news today is that there will be more...we just can't tell you which ropes yet.

At the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market in August, Liberty Mountain and Beal will reveal the extended collection of ropes that will reign supreme with UNICORE. Keep an eye and ear out for this big announcement and receive it directly by subscribing to our blog and social media pages on Facebook, Google+, and Twitter.

...

Beal qualifies as the worlds’ premier manufacturer of climbing and security ropes. This leading position is explained by indisputable technical advances in the production process, and sales of over 8 million meters of rope annually.

Liberty Mountain is the exclusive U.S. distributor of these French made ropes, making Beal a leading brand that is seen in many, if not most of the outdoor retail shops around the nation. Liberty Mountain also directly sells Beal products to the general consumer through LibertyMountainClimbing.com.

...